I have to tell this last story, even though it is self-serving and makes it appear as if Mark bought his way into EOS, which of course he did not. Just mindful Zen-infused chinchilla-trimmed Ferrari perfection from takeoff to beach landing. He wanted to bodysurf Pipeline the way Lopez board-surfed it, and that is what he did. He is chinchilla fur, knee-length and silk-lined.Ĭunningham is as powerful and smooth as he is fish-like, in other words. It is often said that Cunningham is amphibious, which is true but incomplete. The surf leash broke up surfing and bodysurfing, which up to that point had been united since the beginning-wipeout, lose board, bodysurf, repeat- and not long afterward Cunningham more or less became our one-man repository for what some people think of as the purest form of wave-riding. Bruce Jenkins, in this excellent Mark Cunningham profile, highlights some of the first great bodysurfers. For many of you, he is the only revered bodysurfer, but that is because so little attention has been paid to bodysurfers over the past 50 or so years.īodysurfing got way more attention in the earlies Ron Drummond wrote a whole book about it, and Russell Hughes’ one brush with fame came with this long board-free ride in the ’68 World Surfing Championships, as seen on Wide World of Sports. Today, Warshaw riffs on the North Shore bodysurfer, Mark Cunningham, a man who is to the North Shore what Churchill was to his besieged people in 1940: an unwavering symbol of determined righteousness and with a sorta off-kilter brilliance.Ĭunningham is of course the world’s most revered bodysurfer. Sunday is Matt Warshaw day, when surfing’s sole historian and its most quotable writer looses a sprawling stream-of-consciousness email upon his subscribers. I hope mine is used as a weapon to strike down the next 1000 CEOs of organized professional surfing. Where will your jaw go when you finally expire? It was not the Taranaki Terror and its jaw was donated to science. I stand with the surfers, however, who have seen it leaping into the air and the bounty hunters who are out trying to catch it, as it’s jaw is worth a reported $30,000.Īnother massive Great White was recently tangled in a New Zealand fishing net and perished. The Terror has been cruising for three-weeks, though some don’t believe, calling it a “complete load of bloody hype.” Well, the beasts have arrived in even greater numbers than the nightmare scenario and in greater sizes too.īut maybe you’ve heard of the “ Taranaki Terror,” what has been described by eyewitnesses as a 20 foot Great White Shark that swims as fast as a bullet and eats seals in front of sheet-white tourists, covering them in red, red blood. Shark experts and enthusiasts will recall, pre-Covid-19, when it was reported here that an “apocalyptic mass human extinction event” was amassing off New Zealand’s once-bucolic shore in the form of “thousands of Great Whites.” I’ve got a fiery rebuttal from Surfline over the charge that the surf forecasting website gouged its customers during a pandemic. If this particular post frustrated you with its lack of depth, direction, meaning, value etc. If she was really so anti-surfing, it seems unlikely she would use this shot.ĭoes anyone know when Ultimate Surfer is supposed to air again? Thankfully, though, Gossip Cop has debunked most of OK!’s story.įirst, Roberts posted a loving tribute to Moder on Father’s Day featuring him walking with what appears to be a swallow tail’d fish. OK! Magazine recently reported that famous actress Julia Roberts begged her cinematographer husband Danny Moder to stop surfing in order to save their marriage.Īccording to the popular British tabloid, Moder’s surfing was seen as overly dangerous as he was too much of a “thrill-seeker” and she would have preferred that he would have worked out in their home gym instead of “blowing off steam” in the ocean but he refused to give up and kept “getting his fix.” Yes, surfing is an enviable trait but not everyone appreciates. Does your significant other love that you surf? That you have nice triceps and a tan face? That you have a hair-trigger temper and bring sand into the bed, are often late to pick up kids and/or dates, sometimes cross into oncoming traffic because you are rubber necking the lineup, drain the family accounts on Surfline memberships, etc?
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